So following the weekend with Molly, I had a few travel objectives and a rough itinerary which were as follows: see Wli waterfall, ride a boat down the Volta, see the bead markets in Agomanya and Koforidua, and be back home by Friday the 21st of October. A car to Wli from Hohoe took less than an hour and soon I found myself dropped off in the middle of a quiet town with almost no one around. Thankfully there were dozens of signs pointing to various hotels and restaurants, so after a short walk down an overgrown path between random houses and farms I found Waterfall Lodge-the German-owned hotel I stayed at for the night. I was the only guest there, which made for very speedy meal service and some lovely peace and quiet in which to meditate and enjoy the distant view of the falls.
That same day I hiked to the waterfall itself. To make the hike you have to pay a small fee at the “tourism office” where you get assigned a guide and must deter the marriage offers from the guy who runs the office (“Yes, I swear I’m already engaged, why ever would I lie about a thing like that?”). I’d been looking forward to a nice solitary walk through the jungle, so I was at first slightly put off by the need for a random ghanaian man to accompany me, but as it turned out the little old guy was pretty cool. His name was Matthew and was a farmer but did tours on the side for extra cash, he pointed out a bunch of random plants and trees and explained their names in the local language (Ewe) and English, with a few quips about medicinal uses thrown in. After crossing a half dozen little wooden bridges criss crossing rivers and streams, he led me up a steep path toward the upper falls for a better photo op of the falls. Thank god for the improvised walking sticks he made because someone as clumsy as me would surely not have made it otherwise. I spent a good hour or so relaxing at the foot of the waterfall, the pool of water was so intensely choppy and windy from the force of the crashing falls, I only waded in a few yards, but it was fabulous nonetheless.
*A note to travellers in this region, Waterfall lodge has amazing food, vegetarian friendly, and some bomb whole wheat bread.
The next day it was back to Hohoe and on to Kpando about an hour south where I ventured off the main road to check out the Kpando Potters, a women’s pottery cooperative. The place itself is quite a ways down a little dirt path of a road through a village in Fesi and I was fortunate enough to run into one of the co-op women who took an hour out of her day to take me on a shortcut through the village and show me around the workshop. I picked up some great pieces as gifts for friends as well as a little clay teapot/teacup for myself and took some photos. Back in the main town of Kpando, I set out on a mission to find a boat to take me down to the southernmost port of Lake Volta. I managed to pick a taxi driver who was incredibly kind and seemed determined to help me find a boatman, but after a lot of searching and asking around, it became clear that such an adventure would require more planning at a future date. Thus I began the journey back south, heading for the bead markets.